Understanding How to Make Vegan Custard
Vegan custards are not difficult to make once you get beyond the egg-replacement bit. Recipes included this week are Blueberry Custard Pie and Asparagus-Leek Quiche
Yotam Ottolenghi once observed, “Custard is controversial: what makes it a custard, how best to cook it and, crucially, is it to be eaten or put in a pie and thrown?” I agree…a custard’s meaning is never completely clear.
According to Larousse Gastronomique, a book I often refer to when searching for culinary clarity, a custard can be a hot or cold mixture, set or thickened with eggs or egg yolks. Custards usually refer to sweet mixtures of milk or cream that are set or slightly clotted with eggs, but savory custards also exist – such as quiche.
There are two main types of custards: pouring custards or custard sauces and custards that are baked or set. Examples of pouring custards and custard sauces include crème anglaise, custard sauce, crème pâtissière and sabayon (or the Italian equivalent zabaglione). Baked custards include crème caramel, crème brûlée, quiche and steamed or baked fish or vegetable custards.
Cooks rely on lightly setting an egg with a liquid to make a successful custard. The amounts of egg and liquid vary and determine the relative thickness of the custard. So, in other words, custards are totally dependent on an egg to create the proper texture and mouthfeel. Or are they?
By established culinary definition, a custard is only made using an egg and this clearly rules out the possibility of making a vegan custard. I think this is the wrong way to look at it – ingredients don’t necessarily determine a dish. I think it is ultimately the mouthfeel, texture and flavor that determine a recipe’s DNA.
In the case of a standard custard, the egg’s ability to set a liquid is determined by slowly coagulating proteins over lower temperatures. Starch is sometimes added to the mix to lend a hand in thickening by gelatinizing. In my mind and in my experience, replacing an egg is merely understanding how much protein to use, what kind of protein and whether a starch is necessary in the mix. As an example, I combine protein-rich cashew nuts with non-dairy milk and vanilla to create a slightly thickened sauce that is very similar to a crème anglaise. I rely on slowly heating lemon juice, tapioca starch and a coloring agent to thicken my custard-like lemon curd, then finish it with protein-rich cashew butter and soy milk to create an end result nearly identical to what most people call lemon curd. I’m also a big fan of using protein-rich silken tofu – the super soft variation. When combined with starches and slowly heated, vegan custard mixtures using silken tofu set just like an egg-based custard.
As a vegan chef, I think it is time to move beyond traditional definitions of foods we all love to eat that are based on using animal-derived ingredients. If I can create a custard with a familiar texture, mouthfeel and flavor using healthy plant-based ingredients – and diners believe they are eating a custard, then what difference does a definition matter?
I have a sweet and a savory pie recipe using my vegan custard techniques in the recipes I am presenting this week. Be sure to check out the list below of my other ‘custard’ recipes on my website: myfreshattitude.com.
I hope you find this week’s commentary and recipes inspiring…perhaps even to make one of my recipes or to develop something of your own. In any case, I would love to receive your feedback. Feel free to spark a conversation by leaving a comment below and sharing with me your vegan custard experiences.
Vegan Blueberry Custard Tart
My first taste of this tart took me somewhere unexpected.
The blueberries burst in my mouth with a juicy acidity that paired well with the slightly sweet vanilla-scented custard. Flavors of fruity berries instantly tickled the part of my brain that held my fondest childhood memories. Suddenly, I was transported to a hilltop filled with wild blueberry bushes and singing birds. I couldn’t help myself – I gorged on fresh blueberries and gathered as many as I could manage, knowing my mom would turn whatever I brought home into a delicious pie.
I think this is what food writers mean when they say something they ate hugged their soul. The memory I experienced of a carefree me stuffing myself with blueberry-stained hands and anticipating what my mom would make felt just like a loving hug.
And so, I ask…what more could anyone want from a dessert?
Difficulty: simple- to moderate
Yield: makes enough for 1 24-cm (10-inch) tart
Ingredients
1 recipe Vegan Pastry Dough
75 grams (3/4-cup) ground almonds
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
750 grams (1 3/4-pounds) fresh blueberries
2 tablespoons egg replacer
30 ml. (one ounce) water
75 grams (2 1/2 ounces) silken tofu
75 grams (3/4 cup) powdered (icing) sugar
150 ml. (5 ounces) soy or oat cream
1/2 teaspoon ground vanilla bean
1 tablespoon tapioca starch
Instructions
Begin by preparing and blind baking the shell of the tart. Roll out the pastry on a well-floured surface until it is very thin – about 1/2-cm (1/4-inch). Try to make a circle that is about 7-cm (3-inches) larger than your tart dish. Fold the pastry in half and gently lift it into the tart dish, with one edge overlapping half of the tart dish. Unfurl the other half to cover the entire tart dish, then lift the edges of the pastry lightly while pressing it firmly into the dish. Work your way around the pastry. Trim off some of the overhang to leave about 2-cm (1-inch) draping over the edges. Fold the overhang together, placing the seam underneath and toward the tart dish. Work your way around the tart to create a thicker upper edge. I like to create nice pinches along the border, but this isn’t necessary. Poke holes into the bottom of the tart and refrigerate (or freeze) for 30-60 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 160°C (320°F). Cover the tart completely with aluminum foil and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Cook the tart in the preheated oven for 18 minutes. Remove the aluminum foil and beans. Coat the bottom of the tart with the ground almonds and 2 tablespoons sugar. Add the blueberries to the tart. Place the tart in the oven and bake for 10 minutes.
Make the custard while the tart partially bakes. Combine the egg replacer and the water. Mix well and allow to thicken for 5-10 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the silken tofu, powdered sugar, soy or oat cream, ground vanilla bean and tapioca starch. Stir to mix, then add the egg replacer mixture. Blend in a small blender or by using a handheld blender.
Remove the tart from the oven after 10 minutes. Add the custard to the berries, then return the tart to the oven. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until the top of the tart is just beginning to turn golden and the center of the tart feels set when touched.
Cool the tart completely before slicing. The custard will continue to set while it cools. Ideally, cool the tart to room temperature, then refrigerate several hours before slicing.
Tips and Variations
Use the best available Vegan Pastry Dough you can find, or better…make your own. Here’s how I make Vegan Pastry.
Substitute ground hazelnuts for the ground almonds in equal amounts if you prefer.
It is possible to make this recipe using frozen blueberries rather than fresh. If using frozen, be sure to allow enough time to fully defrost the berries. Leave them overnight in the refrigerator to thaw slowly.
The egg replacer I use is mostly made of starch and a pinch of turmeric for color. Make your own egg replacer by combining 2 parts starch with 1/2-part locust bean gum (carob gum) and a pinch of turmeric – for example 2 teaspoons tapioca starch + 1/4 teaspoon locust bean gum + 1/4 teaspoon turmeric. Combine 7 grams (1/4-ounce) egg replacer with 30 ml. (one ounce) water and allow the mixture to thicken for 10-15 minutes. Whisk well and use as directed above.
The silken tofu is critical in this mixture. Make sure to use a soft silken tofu.
Tapioca starch will hold its binding longer in an acidic environment than other starches, such as corn starch. I highly recommend sticking with the tapioca starch in this recipe.
Asparagus and Leek Quiche
Teaching people how to make a proper quiche was always one of the most popular techniques I taught during my 15+ years running a cooking school. So, with this in mind…and because I love a good quiche, I ventured into the unknown and attempted a vegan version of this classic I loved.
I think an excellent quiche needs to have a crust that is crumbly (and for me, no margarine, coconut fat or other unhealthy fats can be a part of the equation). The quiche’s interior must be a soft custard-like texture…just enough to hold all the vegetables together.
It took me numerous attempts to reach the quiche goals I established but I finally got there – and this version is damn close to perfection.
It is possible to make this quiche in stages. The pastry can be made and blind baked up to one day in advance. The vegetables and custard mixture can also be prepared a day in advance, leaving only the baking and cooling to finish the job. So, with a bit of planning, this recipe is actually moderately simple to prepare.
Difficulty: simple- to moderate
Yield: makes enough for 1 24-cm (10-inch) quiche
Ingredients
1 recipe Vegan Pastry Dough (see tips)
500 grams (1 pound) thick green asparagus
1 large leek
4 tablespoons nutritional yeast
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Freshly grated nutmeg, to season (see tips)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season
350 grams (12 ounces) soft silken tofu
3 tablespoons nutritional yeast
1 teaspoon Kala Namak (see tips)
1 tablespoon egg replacer
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon tapioca starch (see tips)
6 tablespoons soy milk
Vegan Egg Wash (see tips)
Instructions
Begin by preparing and blind baking the shell of the quiche. Roll out the pastry on a well-floured surface until it is very thin – about 1/2-cm (1/4-inch). Try to make a circle that is about 7-cm (3-inches) larger than your tart dish. Fold the pastry in half and gently lift it into the tart dish, with one edge overlapping half of the tart dish. Unfurl the other half to cover the entire tart dish, then lift the edges of the pastry lightly while pressing it firmly into the dish. Work your way around the pastry. Trim off some of the overhang to leave about 2-cm (1-inch) draping over the edges. Fold the overhang together, placing the seam underneath and toward the tart dish. Work your way around the tart to create a thicker upper edge. I like to create nice pinches along the border, but this isn’t necessary. Poke holes into the bottom of the tart and refrigerate (or freeze) for 30-60 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 160°C (320°F). Cover the tart completely with aluminum foil and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Cook the quiche shell in the preheated oven for 18 minutes. Remove the aluminum foil and beans. Coat the bottom and sides with a good amount of vegan egg wash and place back in the oven for 3 minutes. Remove and allow the quiche shell to cool. You can complete this step up to one day in advance (don’t refrigerate the half-baked pie dough).
Ok…all the hard work is done. All you need to do now is prepare your vegetables and the vegan custard. Let’s start with the vegetables…
Cut the bottom portion of the asparagus to eliminate the woody portion. Cut the tips off and keep them separate. Fill a wide pot with about 8-cm (3-inches) of water and bring to a boil. Salt the water well – it should taste a bit like sea water. Put the asparagus (not the spear tips) into the boiling water and cook until they are just beginning to soften – you want something with a small amount of crunch left into the asparagus. Judge the cooking time yourself because this will vary depending on size – mine were pretty fat and took about 4-5 minutes. Cool the asparagus right away in a bowl of cold water, then drain and leave on a plate. Cook the spears in the same water – they will only need about 1-3 minutes. Cool, drain and reserve separately.
Moving on to the leek. Cut the dark green bits off. Leave the root mostly intact. Make a long cut from the root end all the way through the leek to create two separate ends still held together by the root. Wash well under running water, making sure to remove any sandy bits between the layers. Cut the leek into 2-cm (1-inch) thick slices. Using the same pot and water you cooked the asparagus in, cook the leeks in the boiling water for about 4 minutes. They should soften and turn a bright green color. Cool in water, drain and reserve with the asparagus.
The vegetables can be prepared one day in advance – just be sure to cool them completely and keep refrigerated.
Prepare the custard by combining the silken tofu, 3 tablespoons nutritional yeast, kala Namak, 2 tablespoons flour, tapioca starch and the soy milk. Blend these ingredients well and season with sea salt and freshly grated nutmeg. The custard should be smooth. It can be made several hours or even a day in advance. Keep refrigerated and stir well before using.
Preheat the oven to 160°C (320°F).
To finish the quiche: Split the asparagus spears in half if they are thick, then cut into pieces about 1-cm (1/2-inch) long. Mix the cut asparagus with the leeks. Add 4 tablespoons nutritional yeast and combine. Add 1/4 of the custard to the vegetables, then add to the prepared quiche shell. Top with the remaining custard, or just enough of the custard to cover the vegetables. Arrange the reserved asparagus tips on top. Place in the preheated oven and bake 35-40 minutes – the top should be golden and feel set when lightly pressed. Remove and cool completely before slicing.
Tips and Variations
Start making the pie dough first if you haven’t done so already. Count on about 90-120 minutes to get it ready for this recipe…or make it one day in advance and just keep it refrigerated. Let it come to room temperature about 30 minutes before starting this recipe. I think it’s important to use the best available Vegan Pastry Dough you can find. Here’s how I make Vegan Pastry.
I grate my own nutmeg – I think it tastes much better than pre-ground nutmeg. Buy whole nutmeg and grate as necessary. I like to tell people to grate just enough until you can smell it.
Use ordinary sea salt if you don’t have any Kala Namak on hand.
Cornstarch can be used in place of tapioca starch. Substitute in equal amounts.
Make a vegan egg wash by combining 1 part soy milk with 3 parts oil (use extra virgin olive oil or unprocessed rapeseed oil).
The custard recipe makes more than necessary. That’s ok, because the dough recipe also makes more than necessary…and that means you can make mini quiche tomorrow.
More Vegan Custard Ideas
Discover more vegan custard ideas at myfreshattitude.com. While you’re visiting, be sure to look around and discover more vegan food and cooking ideas.
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