I proudly identify as a shortbread addict.

I find it difficult to resist intensely flavored little biscuits with a crispy exterior and soft and chewy interior and just enough sugar to tickle my taste bud receptors. Throw in a cup of coffee or tea – depending on time of day – and I wonder how I manage to restrict my intake to 3 or 4 shortbread biscuits. Or eat anything else for that matter.

I don’t know how this passion developed. I’m sure the first shortbread biscuits I ate were factory-produced knock off versions of an original Scottish shortbread – the overpriced buttery and crumbly ones that are often sold by the pallet-full in Scottish duty-free shops. These biscuits tasted of stale manufactured butter…yuck! But somehow, I knew there was promise because I loved the texture and mouthfeel. So, I began experimenting…

Well, one thing led to another and before I knew it, I produced a variation that was extraordinary. The initial crunch gave way to a melting interior and my mouth was filled with joy. And I was hooked.

But then things changed in how I ate, and butter – a crucial ingredient to shortbread – was no longer an option…and I began to wonder if it was possible to produce a shortbread biscuit without butter. As it turned out, the answer was in the name – shortbread.

‘Short’ bread is just another way to describe the crumbly texture – a texture that is created when gluten strands that develop when mixing flour with liquids are ‘shortened.’ These shorter strands are more fragile and tend to fall apart much easier…and that’s what creates a crumbly texture. And the best way to shorten gluten strands is by introducing fats – the more you add, the crumblier the texture. The default fat used in most recipes is butter (earlier, it was lard – again, yuck!) but it doesn’t have to be – there is no universal law that says butter shortens gluten better than oil – at least I couldn’t find one.

So, I started to experiment with extra virgin olive oil in to produce shortbread biscuits…using 82% of the amount of butter called for and adding a bit more liquid to the mix. Success. I proved delicious vegan shortbread was indeed possible. I guess at that point, I went a bit crazy in creating variations of shortbread biscuits – versions adopted from numerous other ‘butter’ cookies worldwide.

I hope you find my vegan interpretations of shortbread biscuits inspiring. And who knows, maybe someday we will meet and swap shortbread creations and ideas? In any case, I would love to receive your feedback. Feel free to spark a conversation by leaving a comment below and sharing with me your vegan custard experiences.

Lemon and Thyme Shortbread (vegan)

lemon and thyme shortbread biscuits - photo by Jack McNulty

The combination of lemon and thyme work extremely well in these heavenly vegan shortbread biscuits.

The exterior is crisp, while the interior remains soft and crumbly. And in my opinion, that is exactly how a shortbread biscuit should be. The texture and mouthfeel come from the use of the oil in the recipe, which ‘shortens’ the gluten strands caused by mixing the flour with liquids – this is the only way to get this kind of crumbly texture.

This recipe can be prepared in about one hour…from that urge to eat a biscuit, to actually eating one! But be careful – these biscuits are extremely addictive!

Difficulty: simple

Yield: about 12-18 biscuits (about 5-cm, or 2-inches round)

Ingredients

100 grams (1 cup) powdered sugar (icing sugar)
75 grams (1/3-cup) unprocessed rapeseed oil
180 grams (one cup) all-purpose flour
30 grams (1/4 cup) rice or corn starch
1 teaspoon baking powder
pinch sea salt (about 1/8 teaspoon)
zest of one lemon
juice of 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
2-3 tablespoons non-dairy milk (or as needed)

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 170° C (335°F). Line a baking tray with baking paper or a silicone mat.
Combine the sugar and oil in a mixing bowl. Whisk for 2-3 minutes until slightly thickened.
In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, starch, baking powder and salt. Add the lemon zest to the sifted flours.
Add the dry mixture to the oil and sugar mixture. Add the lemon juice and chopped thyme with just enough of the non-dairy milk as necessary to get the dough to hold together in a slightly wet mass. Although the dough to sit for 5 minutes to fully absorb the liquid.
Roll out the dough on a clean surface dusted lightly with flour until it is 1-cm thick (about 1/3-inch). Cut out circles or rectangles (you can re-roll leftover dough) and poke some holes in the top with a fork. Place on the prepared baking tray.
Bake at 170°C (335°F) for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 160°C (320°F) and continue baking an additional 10-12 minutes. The shortbread is done when they are light- to medium golden. Cool for 5 minutes before removing the shortbread and completely cooling them on a wire rack or clean plate.

Tip and Variations
You can use caster or granulated sugar for this recipe, which is finer than granulated sugar, in place of the powdered sugar (icing sugar). If using caster or granulated sugar, I suggest placing it in a blender and pulsing the sugar to make it finer.
Replace the unprocessed rapeseed oil with extra virgin olive oil in equal amounts.
I like changing the shapes of these shortbread biscuits and make rectangles instead of circles. See what works for you.
Try using the zest of an orange instead of the lemon. This creates a slightly fruity note to the shortbread.
Substitute equal amounts of gluten-free flour and coconut flour for the all-purpose flour to make these shortbread biscuits gluten-free. Be sure to select a gluten-free mixture that does not contain baking powder, which would make the biscuits too soft.

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Chickpea Shortbread (gluten-free)

gluten-free chickpea shortbread biscuits - photo by Jack McNulty

I came up with this version of shortbread to create something resembling authentic Scottish shortbread biscuits. I know my vegan version is not the same as the buttery original but it does have a crispy exterior and soft, crumbly interior.

I chose chickpea flour for this recipe because I like the flavor of slightly sweetened chickpeas – the sweetness from the sugar combined with the fat offsets the hint of bitterness. I added further perfume with lemon zest and a hint of orange blossom water…creating a combination that screams Mediterranean and a texture that shouts Scottish. I know that mixture sounds strange but I am half Moroccan and half Irish, so to me…well, these biscuits not only taste great, they also gently tap into my cultural identity.

Difficulty: simple

Yield: about 12-18 biscuits (about 5-cm, or 2-inches round)

Ingredients

125 grams (4 1/2-ounces) very fine sugar
75 grams (1/3-cup) extra virgin olive oil
120 grams (one cup) chickpea flour
100 grams (2/3-cup) gluten-free flour
25 grams (2 tablespoons) rice or corn starch
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
pinch sea salt (about 1/8 teaspoon)
3 teaspoons orange blossom water
zest of one lemon
4-5 tablespoons non-dairy milk

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 180° C (350°F). Line a baking tray with baking paper or a silicone mat.
Combine the sugar and oil in a mixing bowl. Mix with an electric mixer for 2-3 minutes.
In a separate bowl, sift together the flours, starch, baking powder and salt. Add the lemon zest to the sifted dry ingredients.
Add the dry mixture to the oil and sugar mixture. Add the orange flower water and just enough of the non-dairy milk as necessary to get the dough to hold together in a slightly wet mass. Although the dough to sit for 5 minutes to fully absorb the liquid.
Roll out the dough on a clean surface dusted well with gluten-free flour until it is 1-cm thick (about 1/3-inch). Cut out circles or rectangles (you can re-roll leftover dough) and poke some holes in the top with a fork. Place on the prepared baking tray.
Bake at 170°C (335°F) for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 160°C (320°F) and continue baking an additional 10-12 minutes. The shortbread is done when they are light- to medium golden. Cool for 5 minutes before removing the shortbread to completely cool on a wire rack or clean plate.

Tips and Variations
I use caster sugar for this recipe, which is finer than granulated sugar but not powdered like icing sugar. If using granulated sugar, I suggest placing it in a blender and pulsing the sugar to make it finer.
I replace the extra virgin olive oil with unprocessed rapeseed oil to produce a more ‘buttery’ flavor.
I like changing the shapes of these shortbread and make rectangles instead of circles. See what works for you.
Try using the zest of an orange instead of the lemon. This creates a slightly fruity note to the shortbread.
Make sure you read the ingredients for the gluten-free flour you are using. A rising agent, like baking powder, is often added to the flour and that would make these cookies too soft.
Use a bit of orange juice if you can’t find the orange blossom water (usually in an Asian store or a shop catering to North African or Eastern Mediterranean cuisine).

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Hazelnut Shortbread Sticks (vegan)

hazelnut shortbread sticks - photo by Jack McNulty

I’m not sure the name I selected for this recipe accurately portrays these delightful and slightly sweet nutty biscuits. In most cases, shortbread implies something Scottish…and these are not that.

The texture is like shortbread because of the ‘short’ gluten strands created by mixing the fat and flour together to create a crumbly interior and crispy exterior. And this is the main reason I chose the name shortbread. Well…it’s also because most people unfamiliar with German names will not know how to pronounce the real name – Haselnuss-Stängeli (or quite latterly hazelnut sticks).

Swiss people generally believe Haselnuss-Stängeli are only made during the Christmas holidays. But I respectfully disagree. They are popular throughout the year but mostly, Swiss tend to make them exclusively during the holiday baking season. As for me…I make them whenever I fancy a nutty and slightly sweet biscuit.

The original recipe (if there really is one) calls for milk, butter and eggs mixed with sugar, flour and ground hazelnuts. Making a vegan version turned out to be relatively simple…and I must admit, quite a bit tastier. The bonus in my opinion – the texture is like a nutty shortbread!

Difficulty: simple

Yield: makes about 25-30 individual biscuits cut into sticks

Ingredients

150 grams (1 1/2-cups) ground hazelnuts
120 grams (about 1 cup) all-purpose flour (GF options in tips)
1/4 teaspoon ground vanilla bean (see tips)
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 tablespoon cashew butter
60 ml (1/4-cup) aquafaba
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon egg replacer (see tips)
100 grams (1/2-cup) sugar
80 ml (1/3-cup) unprocessed rapeseed oil

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 170°C (330°F) using the convection fan (be sure to add about 5-10°C or 20°F) to your temperature if you bake without the fan.
Mix the ground hazelnuts, flour, ground vanilla bean and sea salt in a medium-sized mixing bowl. Mix well to combine the ingredients.
In a larger bowl, mix the cashew butter, aquafaba, baking powder and egg replacer. Mix with a whisk or spatula until it reaches a consistency similar to a mixed egg. Add the sugar to the mixture and mix with a hand mixer on high until light and frothy. Begin adding the oil slowly and continue to mix until slightly thickened. Be patient with this step – it will take about 10-15 minutes. In the end, the mixture should be much lighter and slightly thickened.
Begin folding the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients. Work slowly and make sure the dry ingredients are well-incorporated before adding the next round of dry ingredients. The result should be a slightly sticky, but not wet dough. Add 1 tablespoon of flour as necessary to adjust, but make sure the dough is not too dry. Refrigerate for about 20-30 minutes (this would be a good time to clean-up and grab a coffee or tea).
Roll out the dough on a floured surface until it is roughly 1/2-cm (about 1/4-inch). Try to create a square or rectangle if you want to make stick shapes, otherwise cut out the dough as you wish – something like circles. Cut into 7-cm (3-inch) by 1-cm (1/2-inch) portions and place on a baking tray lined with baking paper or a silicone mat. Refrigerate for 20 minutes.
Bake 18-20 minutes, making sure to rotate the pan about halfway through. Cool 3-5 minutes, then remove the biscuits to a tray or plate and cool completely (see tips below to create a glazed topping).

Tips and Variations
You can make this recipe gluten-free by replacing the flour with your favorite mix of gluten-free flour. It may be necessary to add 2-3 tablespoons of GF flour to the recipe to create a dough that is barely sticky. Just be sure to avoid adding too much and making a dry dough; this will cause the biscuits to fall apart.
I buy ground vanilla bean, which has a strong flavor. You can use vanilla extract if you prefer and if it is easier to find. Use 1 1/2 teaspoons in this recipe and add the extract to the aquafaba mixture rather than the dry mixture.
The egg replacer I use has 2-3 various starch mixtures and a bit of turmeric for color. You can use corn or rice starch in this recipe if you do not have egg replacer. Add a small pinch of turmeric for color if you like.
You can make this recipe with extra virgin olive oil instead of the unprocessed rapeseed oil. Substitute in equal amounts.
Combine equal parts soy milk, unprocessed rapeseed oil and powdered sugar (icing sugar), then coat the top of the biscuits about halfway through the baking process. This will give the biscuits an egg-wash effect that is shiny.
Once cooled, you can dip one end of the biscuit in melted dark chocolate then cool on a tray.

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